So, I finally finished up the Colorado Trail. And what a beauty it is! Earlier in the summer, I planned to finish, but Segements 25-28 (the ones that I had left) were closed because of fires. It's been an extremely dry winter and summer. So, my friend Ginna joined me and we went out and did part of the Collegiate West. (I did Collegiate East when I went through there. It was an absolute butt kicker, but wow, it was beautiful. Made it over Hope Pass (super steep) and crossed paths with several ultra runners training for Leadville. Yes, I said runners. Running up Hope Pass. Holy shot. They are bad ass. The next day, we camped right below Lake Ann Pass, at Lake Ann. Highly recommend this spot. It was beautiful. The next morning, got up for the climb up to the Pass, which was much easier than Hope.
Anyway, I had about given up hope on finishing this year, and suddenly monsoon season hit, ringing some rain and thus some fire relief. Not as much rain as usual, but enough that those final segments were reopened. So, when I had a few days, I jumped in the car, drove down to Silverton on Sunday the 12th of August and started hiking at about 3 p.m.
It's so completely different hiking a trail in sections and alone. I have always liked hiking alone, but not a huge fan of camping alone. But, you do what you gotta do. I made about 8 miles before the thunder and lightening around me started ramping up, so I pitched my tent and burrowed in. It never really did rain on me, which was nice, to not have to pack up a wet tent in the morning, but not so great for dry Colorado. I didn't actually camp alone, because there were deer all around my tent, chomping on grass most of the night. I did pull my hiking poles in to the tent with me, because they like to lick the salty parts from sweaty hands, and I didn't want them taking a chunk out of the handles of my poles.
Packed up early and was hiking by 7. I had a short window of time to finish this up, so I planned on about 20 miles per day for the next few days. I had 75 months left, Silverton to Durango. Pretty uneventful day. Lots of up and down (imagine that :). In the mountains ) I literally did not see one other person until mid afternoon and she was hiking the opposite way. Doing her annual pilgrimage to Telluride for the mushroom festival.
...and we're walking....
Thursday, August 23, 2018
Sunday, September 10, 2017
Homeward Bound
I got a pretty good nights sleep (despite the two snoring cyclists in my bunk room. Note to self-pack earplugs. Tissue doesn't really work that great) Had a few hours to kill before Karen and Bob arrived to tote me back to my car which was parked at their house. Again (sorry to be redundant here) but met some really great people. Cyclists from all over the world. A guy from Belgium, who had done a race on the Arizona Trail on his bike. the Arizona Trail goes through the Grand Canyon. The hitch...your bike tires cannot touch the floor of the canyon. Meaning, you carry your bike the 24 miles across the canyon. What?!! The is bad ass.
Karen and Bob arrived and we went to grab breakfast and then do a little tour of that part of the state before heading back to Montrose. Mostly because Karen wanted to terrify me with the ride over Red Mountain Pass. And she was successful. Steep switchbacks and not much in the way of guard rails. Stopped in Ouray for a 'scrap cookie' at their favorite bakery. Basically a cookie with all the good scraps from all the candies they make tossed in. Delish!
Then back to my car for the drive back to Fort Collins. 110 miles down. 75 to go. Silverton to Durango and that will have to wait until next year.
Karen and Bob arrived and we went to grab breakfast and then do a little tour of that part of the state before heading back to Montrose. Mostly because Karen wanted to terrify me with the ride over Red Mountain Pass. And she was successful. Steep switchbacks and not much in the way of guard rails. Stopped in Ouray for a 'scrap cookie' at their favorite bakery. Basically a cookie with all the good scraps from all the candies they make tossed in. Delish!
Then back to my car for the drive back to Fort Collins. 110 miles down. 75 to go. Silverton to Durango and that will have to wait until next year.
July 24
So, today, I had to make it to Silverton. 28 miles with lots of up but also lots of down. I knew there was about a seven mile section of down...so I figured I could make the mileage. At first light (barely) I packed up my wet gear and got moving, using my headlight for a little while. It was full tilt go all day today. Met some people. Got rained on a little bit. Saw a moose mama and her baby. (ALWAYS a thrill)
And just cruised along.
Most times when you come to a road, the trail leads DOWN to the road. Not today. I got down to the bottom of the climb (which is where the tracks are for the train that runs from Silverton to Durango) and then had 2000 foot climb UP to Molas Pass for the hitch in to Silverton. It was about 5:30 when I reached the tracks and a few others were stopping to set up camp for the night. I briefly considered it, but then decided to push on. Honestly, it sounded worse when I was thinking about it , then it actually was. I got up to the road at about 7:30 and there was not a lot of traffic, which made me alittle nervous about my chances of getting a ride. One car went by and didn't stop. I'm not going to lie...I was TIRED and felt pretty sorry for myself as the blasted past. Second car was a big RV and low and behold, they stopped. A woman about my age leaned out the door and said, "What are you doing out here?" hahahaha They were from Arizona and had no knowledge of the Colorado TRail, but they were super nice AND they were going to Silverton, so they gave me a ride. Rode the miles into town with their black lab, Max, sitting on my lap :)
There is a big bike race going on now along the CT, so when I got to tiny Silverton, there were no hotels rooms. Walked to the hostel there and got SO lucky. I got the last bed. By the time I got there, it was about 8:15. I walked in, got assigned a bed and one of the bikers said, "We're going to get pizza and beer. Are you in? They last place closes at 9:00. " After this long day, you bet I was going!! I threw my pack on my bed, and even though I was filthy, damp and tired, I walked the 100 feet down to Avalanche Brewery for pizza and beer. AH! I made it!
July 23rd
My hiking window is running short, so I wanted to do big miles today. Started early, with lots of wet, mucky trail. It was nice to not have to pack up a wet tent, I must say. Lots of elevation gain today and hit the high point on the CT.
I met two young guys from the UK. Rambo and Owen. They were on vacation from University, so they decided to hike the CT. THey had never been to the US before and were pretty blown away by the beauty of the Rockies.
Today, I was hoping to get all the way through Segment 23, which meant a 24 mile day, so that tomorrow I could make it in to Silverton, which is my stopping point for the year. Segment 23 hovers right at about 13,000 feet for much of the way. At about 4:30 (and mile 19) the rain began, with a little thunder, but I still didn't feel like it was threatening. I've hiked in rain plenty of times, so I just kept moving. I figured I could squeeze in a few more miles. But then the wind picked up and the temps dropped. Wet is one thing, but cold and wet is another thing. Bad combo. My gloves were soaked and I was getting really cold, so I may be stubborn, but (I don't think) I"m not stupid. So, I found the first flat spot and threw up my tent. Peeled off all my wet stuff, put on the dry and burrowed in to my sleeping bag. It took a long time for me to warm up, so no doubt it was the right decision. The rain continued for another few hours with lots of lightning and thunder. I'm not going to lie...I was a little nervous!!
This is my moms birthday. July 23rd. Mid-summer . Sometimes, in situations like this, it seems so far removed from normal life. Somewhere, people are down cooking burgers on the grill and drinking beers, and I'm up on a mountain, freezing my tail off. It seems like such a different world.
July 22
Went to the laundromat in town, ate a big breakfast and caught the shuttle back to the trail. The shuttle didn't leave until noon, so I knew it wasn't going to be a big mileage day. It was pretty overcast and drizzly, even in the morning in town, so I knew it was going to be a wet day. The trail was nice, but it was wet, and gloomy, so...when I came to the Yurt, which is open to hikers if it's not reserved...I decided to stay there. Something new for sure. I got inside. A few other hikers came along and it started storming and blowing, so it felt good to be inside and dry. There were some old army bunks, so pretty fancy! Ha. Another guy came along who was cycling the CT. Talk about hard! It's tough enough to walk up mountains carrying a pack, but add pushing a bike with all your gear up a mountain...
The skies cleared for a bit right before the sun went down
The skies cleared for a bit right before the sun went down
The light was amazing and then, super bonus, a bald eagle flew right across the valley in front of the yurt. Wow.
July 21- the Snow Mesa
I got up early and had some really tough, steep climbs to start the day. Kicked. My. Butt. So beautiful, so of course, had to stop plenty to 'take in the views' (aka breath) The second half of the day was above 12,000 feet across the Snow Mesa. It is a high altidude, rolling plains. It was other worldly. But, it was late afternoon and the usual clouds were starting to pile up. Threatening skies and lots of belching and burping. Not too much rain, but I didn't want to be up there when the lightning started so I was hoofing it. Not a tree in sight, so I was the tallest thing out there. And with my trusty trekking poles (aka lightning rods)
I've been leap frogging with two brotheres from Chicago, Tortilla and Adrian. One is a freshman in college and Tortilla is in his second year of med school. We all scurried down and came to the road and hitchhiked in to Lake City for the night. So much of the forest in this area has been decimated by the pine beetles. Very sad.
I stayed at the Ravens Rest hostel, owned by a former PCT hiker. Nothing fancy, but some really great people there and great conversation. That's one of the things I love most about this whole backpacking culture. I mean, I love the views and pushing myself physically, but I really love meeting the people . If you want diversity, trails are the place. It's fantastic.
I've been leap frogging with two brotheres from Chicago, Tortilla and Adrian. One is a freshman in college and Tortilla is in his second year of med school. We all scurried down and came to the road and hitchhiked in to Lake City for the night. So much of the forest in this area has been decimated by the pine beetles. Very sad.
I stayed at the Ravens Rest hostel, owned by a former PCT hiker. Nothing fancy, but some really great people there and great conversation. That's one of the things I love most about this whole backpacking culture. I mean, I love the views and pushing myself physically, but I really love meeting the people . If you want diversity, trails are the place. It's fantastic.
July 20
I got a good nights sleep, got up early and started walking. I am hiking in the San Juans now and I haven't spent much time here prior to this. THey are incredibly beautiful.
There arent a ton of people out here, but those that I've met, are of course, super-cool. Seems to be a common thread among backpackers. I met a gal from Banff who is hiking the CDT. Trail name 'Tour Guide'. She also hiked the Great Divide Trail in the Canadian Rockies, solo. That is grizzly country. She said it was nice to be hiking down in Colorado where she was not considered 'food'. I have to agree. We hiked together for a few miles and then when we started climbing,,,, I cut her loose. After a few thousand miles this summer, she is in slightly better trail shape than I am . HA!
Found a great spot for the night, over looking an incredible valley. And again...dodged the rain. LUCKY!
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